What Were Drovers' Roads?

Before turnpikes and railways, the movement of livestock was a matter of feet, hooves and patience. Drovers' roads were the motorways of their day: a network of routes that crisscrossed the British Isles, linking remote hill farms with lowland markets. From the 13th to the 19th centuries, drovers moved cattle, sheep, geese and even turkeys — often thousands of animals at a time — from Wales, Scotland and the north of England to fairs and markets in the south and east. The beasts walked; the drovers walked with them, sometimes for weeks. These routes were not built by engineers but evolved organically, following ridges, fords and firm ground. They left an indelible mark on the landscape and on the communities that served them.

Reading the Landscape: Holloways, Bridges and Inns

Walking a drovers' road today is an exercise in landscape archaeology. Look for holloways — deep, sunken lanes worn into the earth by centuries of hooves and feet. These green tunnels, often shaded by hazel and ash, are a signature of old drove routes. You will also find packhorse bridges, narrow stone spans built to carry animals and laden ponies over streams. Many are now footbridges, but their low parapets and single arches betray their age. Drovers' inns are another clue: look for large yards, stabling, and names like The Drovers' Arms or The Black Bull. These inns were places where drovers could rest, feed their dogs, and negotiate the sale of a few beasts to pay for the journey. You might also spot circular pounds — stone-walled enclosures where animals were held overnight or sorted before market.

Planning a Slow Journey on Foot

These routes are best experienced at walking pace, over a few days. Start with large-scale maps: they often mark 'Drove Road' or 'Old Drovers' Road' in gothic script. Choose a section of 8–12 miles per day, and be honest about your fitness — the terrain can be rough, boggy and steep.

• Kit: waterproof boots, map and compass (GPS can fail), waterproof jacket and trousers, spare warm layer, whistle, first aid kit, plenty of water and food.
• Access: Many drove roads are public footpaths or bridleways, but some cross private land. Stick to marked rights of way, and never climb fences or walls unless there is a stile or gate.
• Livestock: Close all gates behind you. Keep dogs on a short lead around sheep and cattle, especially in spring when lambs and calves are present.
• Wildlife: Avoid disturbing ground-nesting birds between March and July. If a bird displays or feigns injury, you are near a nest — back away quietly.

Consider using public transport to reach your start and end points, or arrange a lift. Slow travel is about the journey, not the destination.

Three Regions to Explore

You will find drovers' roads across the UK, but these areas offer some of the most evocative walking.

• Mid-Wales: The Cambrian Mountains are crisscrossed with routes from Tregaron to Abergwesyn and beyond. The landscape is wild, empty and hauntingly beautiful. Look for the old drovers' inns that once served these routes, and the remote chapel at Soar y Mynydd.
• The Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines: The high passes between Kirkby Stephen and Tan Hill, or the old road over Sleightholme Moor, are classic drove country. Wide grassy verges and isolated pubs tell the story.
• The Scottish Highlands: The great trysts at Crieff and Falkirk drew cattle from the glens. Walk the old drove roads near Glencoe or the Cairngorms, where the sense of history is palpable.

What to Look For and How to Travel Slowly

As you walk, tune your senses. Listen for the call of curlew and golden plover on the moors; watch for red kites and buzzards soaring overhead. In late summer, the heather turns the hills purple, and bilberries are ripe for the picking. Slow travel means resisting the urge to rush. Stop at a drovers' inn for a plate of local cheese and a pint of ale. Chat to farmers and shepherds — they often know the old stories. If you are in Scotland, you can wild camp responsibly under the right to roam; in England and Wales, wild camping is more restricted, so use campsites or bothies where permitted. Leave no trace: take all litter home, and do not light fires on fragile moorland.

The Living Legacy of the Drovers

These old routes are more than footpaths. They are threads that connect remote communities, and they remind us that travel was once slow, arduous and deeply social. The drovers were skilled negotiators, weather-readers and animal handlers; their legacy lives on in the quiet lanes, the stone bridges and the pubs that still welcome weary walkers. By tracing their steps, you are not just walking through a landscape — you are walking through history. So pack a map, lace your boots, and set off. The hills are waiting.